Since you’ve utilized two coats already – sand once more and then make sure the stain is mixed really well. Apply it slowly so less air is pushed into every stroke.
The label says – Stain and Polyurethane in 1 Step. If you could have a water based mostly end you’ll be able to flippantly sand it, but you don’t have to go to the naked wood at all. She told me her hubby sanded the painted areas on the dresser lots before she put the poly/stain on. So I would simply do a take a look at area where you have sanded the painted surface a bit. If after it dries and you can scratch it off – you might have to sand to roughen up the painted floor extra. Every painted surface is different – latex, oil, flat, glossy, and so on. Hi Elisabetta – Try each on the underside of the desk to experiment with both to see which one you like better.
In my submit, How to Paint Laminate Furniture, I share the complete course of and some tricks to make laminate look like painted wood. For laminate furniture, I’d sand over the piece a couple of occasions with very tough sandpaper, like a 60 or 80 grit.
Hi Tayna – You probably didn’t do something wrong. The climate, temps and each surface will act differently. That spotting is known as – cratering or pinholing. Depending on how deep it’s, you could need to sand a bit tougher to easy it out. The next coat should fill the holes and create a clean floor.
I suppose I would go along with the black stain. It provides you with a richer shade and smoother finish. Keep having them add more black pigment. Put some on a bit of paper and let it dry. Take it out into natural light after which resolve whether it is black enough. If not – go back into the shop and have them tweak it again. Once you like the color -re-coat the items which have the inexperienced tint and then use the good black on the rest of the pieces.